Mumbai, August 1, 2025 — Ramesh Autade
The iconic Kolhapuri chappals, traditional handcrafted leather sandals from Maharashtra and Karnataka, are officially protected under the Geographical Indication (GI) tag. The registered ownership of this GI tag rests solely with two government-run bodies:
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LIDCOM (Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation Ltd, Maharashtra)
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LIDKAR (Dr. Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation Ltd, Karnataka)
This clarification came jointly from Prerna Deshbhratar, Managing Director of LIDCOM, and K.M. Vasundhara, Managing Director of LIDKAR, in response to rising public discourse around the misuse of the Kolhapuri design.
The Prada Controversy
In June 2025, Italian luxury fashion house Prada showcased its Spring/Summer menswear collection, where one of the leather sandals presented bore a striking resemblance to the traditional Kolhapuri chappals. The visual similarity sparked outrage among artisan communities and on social media.
A group of lawyers soon filed a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) in the Bombay High Court, accusing Prada of violating the intellectual property rights linked to the Kolhapuri design protected under the GI tag.
High Court Dismisses PIL
On July 16, 2025, the Bombay High Court dismissed the PIL. The bench ruled that only the registered owners of the GI tag, namely LIDCOM and LIDKAR, have the legal standing to pursue civil action in such matters.
This decision underscored that third parties or individuals do not have the authority to initiate legal action for alleged violations of GI-protected products unless they are registered stakeholders.
A Heritage Dating Back Centuries
The heritage of Kolhapuri chappals dates back to the 12th-century saint traditions and the reformist policies of Rajarshi Shahu Maharaj in the 20th century. These sandals are renowned for their durability, handmade craftsmanship, and cultural symbolism.
Protecting Artisans’ Rights and Cultural Identity
The leaders of both LIDCOM and LIDKAR emphasized that their mission is not just to protect the GI tag but to safeguard the rights of thousands of local leather artisans, many of whom rely on Kolhapuri chappal production for their livelihood.
“This isn’t just about a name or design, it’s about protecting the legacy and dignity of generations of artisans,” said Prerna Deshbhratar (LIDCOM).
“We are committed to promoting Kolhapuri chappals at national and international platforms, while ensuring that those behind this art form get their due recognition and support,” added K.M. Vasundhara (LIDKAR).
